Many years ago I designed and made two styles of denim trousers called the ‘Mariner’ and the ‘Pitcairner’, based on old historical sailcloth sailor’s trousers. This time around I have washed up on dry land and decided these jeans would be inspired by the workwear of labourers and farmers. And boy oh boy do I love workwear! These jeans are drafted with a slim fit that is not skin tight but rather tailored and beautifully shaped.

Designed with a cinch belt at the back just like ‘olde worlde’ trousers were made, to allow them to be fitted to the figure but also meaning they can be adjusted to wear high on the waist or lower. The cinch also allows for a nice shaped fit, perfect if there is a greater difference than the usual waist/hip ratio.

The idea behind this garment is that it can be worn true to size or can be worn oversized going up the next size for a more relaxed fit or even two sizes for an exaggerated bagginess with a dropped crotch (what we like to call the ‘old man style’!). Our plan, as with all our garments, is that the wearer can have a play and choose how they would like to wear the piece. If you fall between two sizes (for example between a 2 and a 3) and want a loose fit then the next size up (a 4) might be loose enough, if you are more true to size and want the ‘old man style’ then you could try going up two sizes. Does any of this make sense? I hope so!!

We chose a lovely ‘dead-stock’ 13 1/2 oz dark indigo Japanese selvedge denim to make these from, a 100% cotton fabric that does not have lycra so does not have a mechanical stretch, which means it will have greater longevity. We have given the jeans a simple rinse wash, they are a lovely strong indigo colour and we have chosen not to distress finish them or apply any treatment because, in the long run, these only shorten the life of the garment. If we are to discuss the sustainability of clothing then we need to look at the cost, in the larger scheme of things, that these finishes carry. Our aim is that these trousers will be aged by you as you wear them.

Don’t wash them every time you wear them, only when they truly need to be washed. Try airing them between wears to dry off any moisture from your body, hang inside-out in fresh air, outside on a hot day is perfect for this otherwise somewhere warm and dry. If, one day, they wear through then darn and patch them! Wear them and make them your own!

We have made these jeans from 0 (AU6) through to a generous 6 (AU18). Please have a look at the table included with the photos, this lists the garment measurements for the Crofter’s Jeans and correspond to the photo marked with a., b. and c. The cinch belt gives you around 2 cm each side the waist/cinched measurement. We suggest measuring a garment you may have in your wardrobe to imagine the size and fit you would like. I’ve also added a table of size measurements that we used for drafting the pattern for this garment.

If you fall between two sizes then it is best to go up a size. We have photographed the size 2 (AU10) on our size 10 trade mannequin to show you the fit, which is fairly trim without being overly fitted. There is shape through the waist and hips, of course, as these have been cut for the female figure. As they are freshly washed we suggest giving them time to warm and shape to the body.

This style does not have an added on waistband and the top of the trouser is fitted with darts at the front and back with the cinch belt giving added shape. The front is flat through with a button fly and an internal button tab. The waist facing is finished with binding made from wax print fabric from Cote d’Invoire and the pocketing is made from handwoven cotton irate from our weavers in India. All buttons and buckles are metal.

All sizes have a 77cm inside leg and have been finished with a ‘boat hem’, a nice deep hem that allows a cuff to be easily folded up and hold its shape without falling down. Sadly we can’t provide a re-hemming service.

It has been a pleasure to work with Vince Clothing to make these jeans in their fully Ethically Accredited By ECA factory less than 5km from our shop here in Fitzroy.

Designed in Fitzroy, fine tuned in Yarraville and made in East Brunswick.

Care: Cold water wash inside out to preserve colour. Line dry. Do not bleach or tumble dry.